Rock Climbing Ropes

Climbing rope is composed of a semi-elastic nylon material about 10mm thick. It is designed to secure, but also provide some bounce in order to slow an accidental descent gradually. But apart from the material itself, the way it is used is critical.

The Single Rope

Single Rope slinging is probably the most common technique. Used extensively on straight climbs, the single rope provides a safe and secure aid. Bolts or other forms of anchor are used to connect to the rope via carabiners that the climber uses to ascend and descend.

During ascent, a line is secured by an anchor often a cam - a spring-loaded device that is inserted into a crack, then spreads and provides a hold. Cams are pushed up the rope, placed, then resist downward movement when weight is applied on them transmitted through the rope. Knots like a prussik are used to tie the rope to the pro (protective gear – nuts, cams and more). Klemheist is a popular alternative knot for the purpose.

Descending (via techniques such as abseiling or rappeling) are done by putting friction on the rope, usually with the help of a Figure 8, a Petzl stop or similar device called a belay. Only in emergencies would someone rely solely on friction between glove and rope to slow descent. The heat quickly rises to the point the climber can no longer hold on, not to mention quickly wearing out expensive gloves.

Single rope is less expensive in the short run, since you have to buy less rope. But the technique places more wear on the rope, leading to the need for earlier replacement.

The Double Rope

With the double rope technique two ropes, as the name suggests, are used. They can be placed close together but it is common to separate them by a few inches to a few feet. By creating a zig zag pattern up the face with cams, nuts, pitons and other pro, the force is distributed much better than in a single rope system.

The rock climbing ropes themselves can be a little thinner, 8-9mm, making each rope a little bit cheaper. The price savings is offset by needing two, but rope wears much longer with a double rope system. By hammering or placing pro at angles, rope wear is negligible. Also, any stay that comes loose results in much less fall, since the movement is often sideways rather than vertically down.

The Twin Rope Technique

A variation on the two systems above is the twin rope technique. Two ropes are used as in double rope, but they are both run through the same pro at each point like the single rope technique. They are typically composed of the thinnest rope, 7-8mm, but because the rope is doubled the system is still safe. The technique is slower to use, though, and with contemporary rope manufacturing, rarely needed.

To string a rope system correctly is harder than it looks. It is essential to get instruction from an experienced teacher and to practice first in a controlled environment such as a climbing gym. Then, out in the real world, watch carefully the way the more experienced lead climber puts the techniques into practice.

How To Chose Your Rope

How To Roll Your Rope

How To Choose A Rope Bag

Almost all climbs will require some kind of rope harness, ropes and a number of climbing carabiners. These constitute the basic equipment for anyone doing anything other than a free climb.

Climbing carabiners come in a variety of shapes and sizes, but they are almost all made of aluminum or stainless steel and are manufactured in two basic types: locking and non-locking.

Non-locking biners are roughly oval or D-shaped with the C-shaped portion providing a loop completed by a section that swings open and shut. They are used as a strong, breakproof stay to connect a rock climbing rope harness to belay devices, pitons and other gear via ropes.

The swinging portion of carabiners can be straight or bent, with the latter an increasingly popular option. The rope is pushed against the gate, which swings open easily, but then shuts quickly to prevent the rope from escaping. They do sometimes come open, but most will perform properly under a wide range of strenuous conditions.

Locking carabiners provide that extra measure of security by incorporating a sleeve or other mechanism that clamps over the gate. Some are self-locking but the majority require only a simple slide, twist or screw motion to secure the biner. Naturally, that is done after you have put the rope inside.

It is very rare for a biner to break, but it has been known to happen, especially in ultra-cold temperatures and under sharp acceleration. More than one can be used to secure a rope harness.

Climbing Rope Harnesses

A rock climbing rope harness is the complementary piece of gear, the part that clamps onto you. A series of straps with connectors provides a form-fitting harness that attaches to ropes by biners. There are different styles that are used for different types of climbing.

A sit harness is made up of a waist loop and two leg loops, often made of strong nylon. They provide safety while offering freedom of movement. They are often used for rock climbing or abseiling - a technique of vertical descending down a rock face.

A chest harness, by contrast, is only worn around the chest and shoulders. With a chest harness, you can avoid accidentally flipping around the waist since you have a high center of gravity. They are often used in conjunction with a sit harness to provide an extra measure of stabilization and mental security.

A full-body rock climbing rope harness is essentially the combination of the two. With two points, upper and lower, you can provide maximum security. But there is a trade-off. A full-body rock climbing rope harness provides less freedom of movement. For an experienced climber that trade-off frequently isn't desired, but for a beginner the extra feeling of security may be highly valued.

Ropes connect everything together, using loops that are strongly sewn into the harness and (in some instances) wire straps that are part of other gear such as cams.

Selecting biners that are easy to use and a harness that feels right to you will enhance your climbing experience.

Return From Rock Climbing Ropes To The Yosemite National Park Home Page


Return From Rock Climbing Ropes To Rock Climbing Basics