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Rock Climbing Basics
If you want to learn to climb, there is no substitute for getting some rock climbing basics training by taking a class from a knowledgeable instructor, one with deep experience in climbing. That class will be a combination of lecture and hands-on training. You will be guided in acquiring a wide variety of skills that are essential for safe and effective climbing.
Rock Climbing Knots
Students will learn basic knot tying skills needed by every climber. The Italian Hitch for belaying, the Bowline for tying into the harness, a Double Overhand for joining abseil ropes, a Tape Knot for tying nylon together for a sling and a number of others are essential.
Tying in to the harness is required. Learning it is simple. But doing it properly takes practice. It is important to strap on a waist or chest harness correctly and to test the loops and ties. Students will learn how to check their partner's harness correctly, too. Students learn how to use carabiners the right way and practice becoming adept so the tools are as familiar as a spoon.
Belaying is among the most important early lessons to learn and it goes hand-in-hand with top rope climbing.
In the top rope technique a long rope of semi-elastic nylon about 10mm thick is anchored at the top of an outcropping or plateau. The rope is threaded through a pulley or loop or carabiner(s) and the two ends hang down at the level of the climber and his partner, the belayer. The anchor is attached to an assembly of webbing and carabiners attach the anchor to the rope. The anchor point can be formed using bolts or cams in a crack.
One person climbs, the other belays. As the climber rises, the belayer takes up slack and watches to ensure that, should the climber slip and start to fall, the rope prevents him from moving down more than a few inches. Even on an uneventful climb, the climber often comes down after going up. Not surprisingly, this is called lowering. The belayer plays out the rope and the climber lowers gradually down. There is a proper technique required even for this seemingly simple act.
In class, students will learn to climb, lower and then switch to belay. At all times, climbers are partners. They need to communicate and cooperate to ensure a safe climbing experience.
Of course, for anchors to be set and ropes threaded, someone has to put them at the high point. That divides climbers into two different roles: lead climber and second climber. The leader climbs the pitch (the rock face), places protection (stays made of nuts, cams and other pro) and attaches the rope to them with carabiners (small, oval-shaped metal loops).
In that scenario, there is no pre-placed and belayed rope to prevent the leader's fall. The leader will place a piece of pro, then climb up to reach the next point of placement. A fall here means moving down more than a few inches - as much as several feet or more. That is why the role is always performed by an experienced climber.
There are many other rock climbing basics, and dozens of details, that students can only absorb and practice in the context of a class. Finding a nearby climbing gym is a good first start. Experienced instructors can teach and monitor you in a safe environment, to get you out to the real thing that much sooner.
One of the most important pieces of gear you will need for mountain climbing isn't actually a single device, but a family: the so-called pros or protective gear.
Cams are spring-loaded devices that the climber places into a crack or hole to provide protection against falling. They are inserted, then pressure causes them to expand and grab against the surfaces.
They come in a variety of shapes and materials. Some are long and thin, others are shorter and thicker. But they all serve the same purpose: to provide a toe-hold to which you can attach a carabiner. A biner is a ring-like device to which your ropes and harness are also attached.
A nut is your of the most rock climbing basic types of pro, as climbers say. They are small, usually metal alloy, and often in the shape of a nut. Threaded through the hole is a cable to which you attach another piece of equipment, often D-rings. D-rings are one type of biner. They are ultra-strong and (provided the rock holds) can keep you from falling if you slip or another hold gives way.
Nuts, like other gear, require some training to use properly. How to place them in the crack and how to judge whether that is the right crack to put them in takes experience and practice. They cost around $8-$10 and you can expect to have to buy a few.
A hexentric or hex is another common piece of so-called passive rock climbing basic equipment. This means they do not have moving parts like spring-loaded cams and they do not (you hope) change position when you use them. As the name suggests, they are six-sided and typically barrel-shaped. They are designed to be used in parallel-sided cracks.
Here again, placement requires some skill to use properly. And, any piece of gear that is not used properly can be worse than not using it at all. They can cost anywhere between $10-$30, but they are essential to the rock climbers basic kit.
Runners are another highly used piece of gear for climbers. These days they are almost all made of some kind of nylon, but often have small amounts of other materials incorporated into the design. They are short to medium-length loops or straps used to sling around a tree branch, an outcropping of rock or other structure.
Pitons are one of the most widely recognized pieces of traditional rock climbing basic gear, because they are what always give way in the movies as the hero is climbing. These spike-shaped tools are hammered into place to provide a stay for a rope. Unlike the movies, fortunately, pitons actually work reliably almost all the time. Getting them freed after use is more often the problem.
Pitons today come in a huge variety of shapes and composites, from the typical looking railroad spike to a fat wedge. Some are even hook-shaped or look like an old-fashioned, miniature oil well pump. They cost around $10 and you will want to have at least a few because (as in the movies) they do sometimes come loose and fall or get permanently stuck.
Learning to use pro will become second nature in time. Starting with quality gear will speed up that process. Get your rock climbing basics down before you head up a granite cliff! And once you are good, come and do some rock climbing in Yosemite National Park. It is NOT for the faint of heart or beginners!